That depends. Here's the answer based on the material to which you are applying anaxblend:
1. Sandblast the metal with 50 - 110 micron aluminum oxide.
2. Clean the metal with steam, then allow to dry completely.
3. Apply a generous coat of anaxblend Metal Bonder to the dry surface of the frame, and allow to dry for 30 seconds.
4. IMMEDIATELY apply the first, thin layer of anaxblend Opaquer paste gently, moving your brush in one direction. IMPORTANT: Metal bonders evaporate quickly. If more than 10 minutes pass before you apply the first layer of opaquer, reapply Metal Bonder.
5. Light cure the first layer of Opaquer (3 minutes in LED light units. 300 flashes WITHOUT gas in the otoflash)
6. Apply and cure additional layers of opaquer until the metal is completely concealed. These additional layers can be thicker and applied with less gentle brush movements.
1. Roughen the surface by sandblasting with aluminum oxide (50-110 micron) at 2 bar pressure.
2. Clean with isopropyl alcohol, allow surface to dry completely.
3. Apply a thin layer of bond lc to the pmma, or 3d printed resin surface, we recommend using a micro-brush.
4. Light cure Bond LC, in a heatless light unit for 60-90 seconds, depending on the light unit.
5. Bond LC will have a satin finish when it is fully cured.
6. Apply your composite.
You will need a heatless full spectrum light unit that cures between 350nm - 500nm.
All light units are different. You will need a heatless unit that has a spectrum between 350nm - 500nm.
To ensure your composite is fully cured, follow these steps:
That sticky layer is called the "inhibitation layer," and it's what bonds additional composite to the surface as you add layers. It's there because composite in direct contact with oxygen CANNOT cure.
When you no longer want to add composite, rather than removing the sticky, uncured layer on the outer surface, you need to cure it. There are two ways to do that:
That depends. Here's the answer based on the material to which you are applying anaxblend:
1. Roughen the surface by sandblasting with aluminum oxide (50-110 micron) at 2 bar pressure.
2. Clean with isopropyl alcohol, allow surface to dry completely.
3. Apply a thin layer of bond lc to the pmma, or 3d printed resin surface, we recommend using a micro-brush.
4. Light cure Bond LC, in a heatless light unit for 60-90 seconds, depending on the light unit.
5. Bond LC will have a satin finish when it is fully cured.
6. Apply your composite.
All light units are different. You will need a heatless unit that has a spectrum between 350nm - 500nm.
That sticky layer is called the "inhibitation layer," and it's what bonds additional composite to the surface as you add layers. It's there because composite in direct contact with oxygen CANNOT cure.
When you no longer want to add composite, rather than removing the sticky, uncured layer on the outer surface, you need to cure it. There are two ways to do that:
1. Sandblast the metal with 50 - 110 micron aluminum oxide.
2. Clean the metal with steam, then allow to dry completely.
3. Apply a generous coat of anaxblend Metal Bonder to the dry surface of the frame, and allow to dry for 30 seconds.
4. IMMEDIATELY apply the first, thin layer of anaxblend Opaquer paste gently, moving your brush in one direction. IMPORTANT: Metal bonders evaporate quickly. If more than 10 minutes pass before you apply the first layer of opaquer, reapply Metal Bonder.
5. Light cure the first layer of Opaquer (3 minutes in LED light units. 300 flashes WITHOUT gas in the otoflash)
6. Apply and cure additional layers of opaquer until the metal is completely concealed. These additional layers can be thicker and applied with less gentle brush movements.
You will need a heatless full spectrum light unit that cures between 350nm - 500nm.
To ensure your composite is fully cured, follow these steps:
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